As
promised, here are a few observations from my four days in Las Vegas. Keeping in the tradition of this blog, I'll focus on aspects of urbanism, transportation, and otherwise obscure economics. I can't really comment on how the region as a whole of doing, because I simply didn't see any of it.
The strip is a very urban place.
The strip itself is a surprisingly urban place. There are tens of thousands (maybe more) hotel rooms, condo units and timeshares in only a few square miles. Skyscrapers dominate the area. Most rooms are within walking distance of restaurants, entertainment, gambling, stores, bars and clubs. There is public transportation and cabs available for getting around (but more on transportation later). The strip seems safe and has plenty of pedestrians at just about every time of day. Of course, Las Vegas also has a reputation as being one of the worst sprawled out places in America. If you have a window seat on your flight you can easily see the subdivisions and suburban landscapes that have made the region notorious in urbanist circles.
Tourism is hurting. Badly.You don't have to look hard to find articles about the decline in Las Vegas tourism since the recession hit. I was surprised how obvious this fact is to visitors. The shuttle van I rode from the airport to my hotel had a tourism "ambassador" aboard who spent about 15 minutes talking to us about places to visit, handing out coupons for certain attractions, and pitching some really incredible "deals". Helicopter rides on the strip that used to sell for hundreds of dollars were going for fifty. Casinos were handing away free chips if you were willing to take a tour of the property. My understanding is that these ambassadors are relatively new. In the days before the recession, hotels and casinos simply didn't need any extra help getting people in the door.
Prices vary more wildly than expected.
I was surprised with how big the range in prices were at various places on the strip. Casinos with popular high rollers rooms were right next to dive-type places with regular Joes making $3 bets on craps. Fancy hotel bars selling $7 bottles of Bud Light could be across the street from a less fancy place selling pints of Bud for a dollar. Obviously there is a price to be paid for environment anywhere, but it seems to be even more extreme in Vegas.
Walking is more difficult than it should be.
When you see the strip on TV or in pictures, it really doesn't look particularly big. When you hit the street and start walking, it's easy to realize how much farther away things are than they may appear. As I mentioned before, there are pedestrians out at just about every time of day, but the sidewalks seem inadequate to handle the foot traffic. There are a number of choke points along the strip where pedestrian traffic grinds to a painfully slow flow. If you are a fast walker like me or you're in a hurry, this can be an incredibly frustrating proposition. Considering that Las Vegas Boulevard is over ten lanes wide in many places, it seems appropriate to wonder why one lane on each side couldn't be converted into improved sidewalks for pedestrians.
Transportation is a mess.
In general, the transportation situation in Las Vegas is simply a mess. Taxis and shuttle vans are really the only options for moving between the airport to the strip without renting a car. Obviously taxis are popular options at any city's airport, but it can be frustrating when there aren't other (more affordable) options available. On Sunday morning, the line for taxis at the MGM Grand was easily over a hundred people long and required about 20-30 minutes of waiting before you could catch a ride.
There were two options for non-cab public transportation on the strip, the Duece (bus) and the monorail. The monorail is fast, reliable, and has five minute headways. It is also expensive and has other shortcomings (more on that in a moment). The Duece is slow, unreliable, and always seemed to be jam packed. Many of the riders seemed completely unfamiliar with public transit; they did not know how to pay the fares, didn't understand why exact change was required, and seemed to become upset as the bus got more crowded. A bus could be delayed for minutes at each stop while riders figured out how to pay fares and squeeze in. Once the bus started moving, battling Las Vegas Boulevard traffic guaranteed a slow crawl up and down the strip.
The Monorail represents a missed opportunity.
I bought a 24 hour monorail pass for $13 and probably got my money's worth. But at 5 bucks for a one way ride, it is probably the most expensive public transit system in the country. Nevertheless, the real missed opportunity is the fact that the monorail is only useful except when it isn't. For example, I traveled back and forth between the MGM Grand and Harrah's a number of times, and the monorail was a great way to do it. But if I was trying to get from the Luxor to Treasure Island or from the Monte Carlo to Encore it would have been highly inconvenient. The problem is that the monorail alignment is behind the hotels on the east side of the strip. If you are on the other side of the street, you have to cross and walk all the way through a casino to get to the closest monorail station. That can be a lot of out-of-the-way walking depending on where you're going.
Every time I rode the monorail there were other riders, but it was never packed like the Duece. My understanding is that it typically runs under capacity expect for during events at the convention center when it can't handle the crowds. The monorail could have been infinitely more useful if the alignment had been along Las Vegas Boulevard, either above or below the street. Unlike other elevated rail systems, the monorail has a small footprint and is not particularly obtrusive. Aligning it right on the strip would have made travel between just about any two points easy. And based on the number of people that use the Duece bus service, I can't imagine wouldn't attract plenty of riders.
Final ThoughtsLas Vegas is unique in the sense that the strip is a highly urban area where few locals actually live. For that reason, aside from the big hospitality corporations there doesn't really seem to be much of a local lobby for improving transportation situation or pedestrian friendliness of the strip. And the transient nature of tourists means there can't really be a mobilized group of individuals to push for anything. Now that Las Vegas has become Foreclosure City, my guess is that locals have bigger concerns than improving life on the strip.